Hanging drywall perpendicular to the overhead framing members is a good idea for several reasons:. This can be done as long as the following conditions are met:. If hung parallel, the maximum spacing is 16 inches on center. These framing spacings are only acceptable for half inch regular board when no water-based textures are being applied to the ceiling.
The lightweight drywall panels meet the same performance standards as interior ceiling boards as they are more resistant to sagging. An often overlooked factor is the insulation in the ceiling. Always consider the weight of the insulation: half inch regular drywall can support 1.
For reference, blown-in fiberglass insulation is approximately 0. Plus, looking for more drywall tips from the pros?
Screw sheet into place, then route the holes: Find edge and then go around the perimeter by feel. You shouldn't be patching small pieces. The 12' provide great scraps, just use them don't cut every full board then start to use cut offs. They need to be used together. Never use marker. It bleeds through and will never be covered by paint. Same with windows: run full size boards across the span the most effective direction.
Do not end a sheet next to a window. This causes a stress crack when the home settles!!! Say there's a hallway with a door and it is exactly 56" wide. Put that 56" across touching the ceiling then piece in the two small sides underneath. Save any scraps and if needed patch work for closets only.
Always run the if needed strip out of eyesight line. For example with walls: Full top row, full second row, then strip near floor. I am red seal journeyman interior systems mechanic I can put up or more sheets a day by standing vertical. Walls over 12' high stager but joints with backing added for proper fire rating. If you prefer horizontal then add backing every 4' along bevel for fire rating so ask yourself what makes since is faster and nicer finish least amount backing.
Using sissor lift one man can do this by putting price of track at outside base of platform. Stand sheet against wall climb on lift and lift sheet put in track and go up to height lift sheet top towards lift bottom towards wall place on top of existing sheet u can use you foot to insure sheet dose not slip then lean top into wall.
It is common sense something not many people have. Work smart not hard don't let drywall be smarter then you. Also any imperfection with the framing will show up like dogs balls if fixed vertically while it would simply be bridged otherwise. Any light coming in through windows or doors will not immediately highlight the difference in texture like it would 3 or 4 joints running from top to bottom perpendicular to the light source.
Even in the case of long runs any finisher or painter would agree that one horizontal joint and two butts will give a way better finish than 7 or 8 vertical joints. Downlights etc are nothing compared to natural light when it comes to showing up joints and difference in texture. I personally find it hard to believe it makes any difference to structural strength whether you fix horizontally or vertically.
Regulations regarding fire proofing are something else but unlikely to be relevant to anyone reading this. I am aware the op has probably finished his project decades ago but somehow I stumbled across this so no doubt many others have as well and felt I should try to clear it up for anyone in the future as a lot of what has been said here is simply wrong.
Horizontal is more efficient, will give you a better finish and will give you less problems in the future with houses settling timber shrinking and all those lovely things, cheers.
Generally vertically; that way there isn't a horizontal join that may show a crack over time. Board lengths are usually sufficient that one board will cover floor to ceiling without a join. The only time I'd expect to see it horizontal would be if it was the first layer, prior to it being covered by a second layer - where you want the joints to be staggered, for example when it is used for fire protection or sound attenuation. I've always believed horizontal was wrong because it leaves an unsupported seam.
That pro's do it to save time kind of says it all - it's an inferior installation done to make dry wall contractors more competitive. Good evening. I believe you can hang it horizontally vertically or diagonal. It doesn't matter which way it's installed.
A competent finisher can make any install proper. The most convenient method of install should be applied accounting for waste and practicality. Call your building department and find out what the code is. I'm remodeling my kitchen and hung the drywall vertically on the walls.
On inspection the inspector asked me why I hung it vertically. He told me it should be hung horizontally. He told me it should be vertical only if it's a load-bearing wall and that only applies to commercial buildings, for residential it should be horizontal. So rather than guess, call your building department.
Thats why it cups if you hang it vertically. I'm not a pro, and tend to cringe at having to deal with sheetrock, but from what I've read and seen, using 12' boards horizontally will have the benefits of:.
Personally, when I've had to do it myself alone vertical made more sense as it was just easier for me to hang solo. You pick which way On what? At one point I was told horizontal was the right way to go. But we had a house extension done recently and they told me vertical in general.
But they have mixed it depending on the wall so they used either. What was more interesting was how many fixing screws they now add and how they have these bizarre recommendations that the builders have to follow but question. Sign up to join this community.
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Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. Should drywall be hung horizontally or vertically? Ask Question. Asked 8 years, 5 months ago. Active 11 months ago. Viewed k times. Improve this question. DMoore DMoore Drywall should be hung horizontally or vertically. I like BMitch's comments and Herrbag's insight on this.
I think there are two topics that I haven't seen covered that I have always wondered about. Without using Herrbag's technique, no one has a flat join on the butt joints, only the beveled ones are easy to fill with mud and tape to make them perfectly flat. For the butt joints, it's all about how good you are at mudding and using a wide taping knife to make the ridge nearly invisible.
Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Higgins Well-known member. For what it's worth, it's easier to mud the horizontal seam than climb up and down a ladder! If installing vertically, you better hope the studs are exactly on 16" centers so you have some material to back the vertical DW sheet with, along with something to screw into!
Joined Mar 12, Messages 3, Location Maine. Click to expand Hop2it Well-known member. Joined Oct 5, Messages 95 Location Fairport ny. Jon, I am finishing up a 24x32 pole barn that is in the lowest part of the yard. I hung the drywall horizontally and had abou a 16" piece at the bottom that I used mold and moisture resistant drywall and polystyrene insulation in that area in case we get the yr flood Good luck with your project Doug Ps I will soon be posting my barn build.
IHI Banned. Joined Mar 6, Messages Location Iowa. My basement only has 8' ceilings so I hung them vertically since I could easily mud the entire length of the seam standing on the ground, plus they weren't really a true 8' due to ceiling tiles in case access was needed in the future for anything.
When we built additions, garages, and such for customers, weather we hung it or my drywall subs hung it, it was always horizontal just because finishing it that way is much easier, on a typical wall height the joint is right at waist level so everything is done on the ground. Pro drywall guys use bazooka's, mud boxes, etc What's been mentioned above is a good point and varies per person, drywall specialty shops sell 54" x?? You could spec out 54" rock and then hang them vertically against the ceiling then butt the next piece under that, and use some sort of trim board along the bottom to finish it, that way you still only have the main seam running at chest height.
It's a light weight orbital sander with a HEPA vac, I contemplated buying one when they first hit the market but didn't, then yrs later rented one when we rocked my 16x20 shed Pros hang sheetrock horizontally- as others have mentioned it's much easier to tape the seams, just work your way around the room instead of humping a full mud pan up and down a ladder that you have to move every 4'. Also, hanging the long axis horizontal tends to minimize inconsistencies in the vertical framing, i.
I'm not a pro, but I've hung and taped a lot of drywall.. Last edited: Oct 16, Pros hang horizontal for a reason. Much faster to hang. If you have a proud stud it won't show. On a ten foot wall put a two foot rip in the middle and it will be a lot easier to tape. The end result will be the same but the pros can't be all wrong. I just hung and finished 45 4x12 sheets, and agree with everyone else -- horizontal is the only way to hang drywall. Butt joints aren't as hard to finish as everyone makes them out to be.
The trick is to create a flat spot in the center, then feather them way out. I feathered mine out about 30" with a smooth finish, and you can't tell there's a joint. I'm not sure if it's been mentioned, but make sure you use paper tape if you use all purpose compound. Mesh tape isn't strong enough and will crack unless you use setting type compound "hot mud". Kevin54 Well-known member. When you hang the sheets horizontally, you have butt seams that are your vertical seams. Those seams need to be mudded and fanned out in a much larger area to hid the fact that the mud is completely on top.
When you hang your drywall vertically, you have a factory edge at each seam that gets filled in and only spread out a small amount to the sides.
Going vertical leaves a much flatter looking wall. As far as less seams, actually going horizontal, you have more footage of seam to do. I posted up a pic quite a while back showing the footage of horizontal vs.
A lot of how it is put up depends on your drywall contractor. It actually can be hung both ways, and the work is up to the guy that muds it. Myself, personally, I prefer to hang it vertically and use the factory beveled edges to keep a flat wall. But my drywall hanging days are over anyways and I have an excellent drywall guy.
As long as the price is good, he can hang it either way. Pros hang it horizontally. It is easier to tape for two reasons. Hang your drywall from the top with a 4, then 4, and a 2 on the bottom. The second reason is that studs warp during construction and afterward.
A vertical wall will look as crooked as a dogs hind leg if you look along it. Finally, buy long drywall, eg 16x4, it eliminates joint and you get a very good job. You have to buy at a professional drywall place. They will deliver it to your room - well worth the price. Nail and screw the drywall only in the bevels, for the middle of the sheet use drywall adhesive.
You will never get nail pops and you never have to fill them. Finally, ALL drywall mud has to be thinned!!! It should be the consistency of pancake dough. Joined Jan 17, Messages The bonus to hanging horisontally is the seam at the ceiling is noticably straighter. On 10' walls, you hand 2 sheets and the 3rd is cut tight to the ceiling.
The longer the sheet, the fewer seams. If you hang it vertically, you'll notice allot of peaks and valleys, even with the indentations at the factory edge.
I had a long discussion about it with a pro when he was doing my house. I can tell you he knew what he was doing because you can't see any seams at all. Joined Apr 28, Messages 19, Location Shepparton. All horizontal in this neck of the woods. I have never seen sheets run vertically out here at all!
Joined Feb 26, Messages Location just south of the middle of Texas. I hang by myself and use a lift - much easier to carry and place horizontal sheets on a lift as well. I ran 4x 8 sheets horizontal on 16 foot side walls I was working by myself so 8 foot was all I could handle on a ladder! I also put treated 2x4s long the floor and started the sheetrock on top of the 2x4s so it wasn't right down to the floor in case the floor gets wet for a number of reasons You say you have lots of outlets to cut out, and want to know what tools you need.
Here's what you need, at a minimum: 4" knife for tape bedding 6" knife for first coat of tapered seams 10" knife for first and second butt joint coat, second and third tapered joint coat, and second and third corner coat 12" knife for final coat of butt joints Mixing paddle, because joint compound needs water added Paper tape Corner bead for outside and inside corners -- I like no-coat or strait-flex Empty 5 gallon bucket for water Utility knife Drywall T-Square Surform plane for smoothing cut edges Chalk Line Drywall screwgun and screws All purpose joint compound -- the stuff with a green lid has more glue for bedding tape, and the stuff with a blue lid has less glue for easier sanding of top coats Pole sander with sanding mesh Sanding sponges for feathering edges and corners I additionally recommend these tools, if you have the money: Drywall lift for ceilings.
These can be rented Senco collated screw gun and screws Rotozip for cutting out outlets Rock Ripper square for fast rip cuts Be prepared to spend hours and hours on this. Cobra6 Well-known member. Joined Oct 23, Messages 1, Location Tennessee. Every time I've ever done it professionally it was done with the sheets horizontal.
If it was supposed to be installed vertically why would they make 12' and 16' sheets? Kevin C Well-known member. I went vertical No butt seams using 9' sheets 1' stem wall.
Seemed like a no brainer even though its not how a pro would do it. First time with sheet rock and it came out great. Part of this might be that a pro is better at taping seams
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